Flat pattern drafting a system of making flat 2 dimensional patterns that when sewn together create a desired fit. The length of the trapeze is your choice make the dress short medium or long it s all up to you the bottom side of the trapezoid should be the top length plus 1 2 i e if the top side is 20 the bottom side is 20 10 30 make the bottom slightly curved.
As part of my pattern drafting for beginners series i have created a tutorial on how you can draft your own bodice block bodice sloper.
Basic dress pattern drafting. Basic pattern skills for fashion design by bernard zamkoff. In the illustration i have drawn the line above the waist seam. You can either make the sewing pattern on a paper or draw directly on the cloth with chalk.
1 2 bust circumference ii 4 cm. Starts draft the dress pattern sloper with drawing the mainframe. There are many easy to understand diagrams and clear instructions.
The basic principles of cut and fit by natalie bray. Basic frame for dress pattern. One of the most exciting aspects of dressmaking is to be able to adapt a basic pattern and develop various types of dresses with elaborate designs.
Pattern drafting a system of creating patterns that reflect an individual s measurements or the sizing standards of an apparel company. You may also like to read. Natalie bray is a well known expert and a pioneer in pattern drafting.
How to draft a basic bodice pattern. In the dress above it sits a bit lower and parts of the dart show in both the white and the blue sections of the dress. I m going to focus on the two most commonly used methods of drafting a pattern.
Start by marking on paper assuming the line a b is folded cloth. Draw a line from the side seam to the center front where you want the waist to fall on your body. Dress pattern designing.
Next set second point to the right letter a1. To get started with drafting your basic bodice pattern check out my previous post. Starts draft the dress pattern sloper with building the frame.
I ve tried to keep t. If you need a step by step guide on how to start drafting sewing patterns and garment construction you can check out my pattern and dressmaking courses here. Pattern drafting sewing dress wsq develop pattern draft and sew dress synchronous e learning overview.
Manipulating darts to move them where ever you want them or change them into attractive shaping seams slashing and spreading your pattern to add fullness in the sleeve skirt or anywhere that you don t want a fitted look. First point which you need to draw be letter a at left top corner. This is a revised version of her first book launched in 1970s.
Pattern blocks or slopers a collection of foundation basic patterns usually consisting of the front and back bodice front and. If you are directly marking on the cloth take the two front and back pieces and fold in half and take the folded side as ab in the diagram and start marking.